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Old 29-08-2013, 07:29 PM
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Timbo Timbo is offline
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Default Rear door locked wont open, VW Passat TDI 03 plate.

We have a good number of calls on how to deal with this and what goes wrong, in this topic we will try and deal with what goes wrong and how to fix and get the door open.

First lets try and deal with just what can go wrong, you may well have a door that wont unlock from the outer handle iner handle and the blip.

As the door lock in the door is all electric: in it's op: the solder joints get hot and start to breakdown, if you can still open the door, this is the time for a lock change, before the door wont open at all

If you are at the stage of having a door that wont open from outer handle and the blip, the iner trim will need to be removed with the door closed, this infact canbe done, without removing the seat and squabs, you first remove the handle trim (pry out) and remove the two screws, start to pry off the trim, it will pull of the clips, look behind, you will note the iner handle cable, remove it from the trim and handle.

Remove the wiring, any that is on the trim, plugs in the speakers, remove the locking arm and rods, and get the trim panel off and out of the way.

Note where everything was fitted and how it went, this is a stage most get to and from here don't know how to move on as all they see as a big steel plate, most at this stage pull the cable, work the rods but find the door still wont open .

Next they remove the steel panel or try too, there are bolts around the outside of the steel panel and after removing them the panel will pry away from the door and sealant, only to find that the steel panel is still held in the centre by the window and you can't do much .

From here most give in and it's back on with the trim and the door stays locked for good.

From here you can go two ways, the right way is to pry off the window by removing the top trim, you have to go down the back side and the front side of the window at the same time, open one plastic V clip in the centre of the glass, without breaking the window , yes it's a hard job if you don't have the right tools.

The other way is to grind off the two window rail rivets, one top centre and one bottom centre of the iner steel plate, you can now remove the plate from the door, after removing the bolts and prying it away from the door and removing the 3 bolts holding the window cable reel and motor to the steel plate.

However this can make work as the rivets are the window runner wheel spindels, and new spindels will need to be made to fit it all back again, however you can now get at the window clip and pry it out.

To make bolt in spindels is not a major job, and it's a good mod: as next time you can just unbolt it.

Ok, you have removed the steel panel, the right way or by grinding off the rivets, no matter it's off, there will still be no way to open the door, remove the plug from the lock unit, take a drill and drill a number of holes into the plastic case of the lock, don't damage the cable leading to the iner handle, you will need it when fitting the new lock, and for £130 + you don't even get the cable.

With a screw driver start prying out the motor and gears till you can flip the lock and get the door open.

With the door now open you can now remove the lock, two torque screws in the door arch panel, you will also need to pull out the door handle pull wire from handle to the lock, this short cable works the lock from the outer handle.

To do this you need to remove the outer door handle cable retainer, pull back about 4" of the door rubber water seal, near where you removed the lock screws, you will see a hole and set within that hole is a torque scerw, undo it till it stops, no need to remove it, you can now hold out the outer handle and remove the cable and the cable retainer.

If you removed the steel panel by grinding off the rivets, you will need to make new spindels for the runner and bolt them to the panel, you will need to get the runner and cable out and all will need to be fitted up on the panel as a working unit before refitting.

Now take a look at how the glass is fitted to the runner, you will see why you could not remove the panel and how hard it is to release the window clip, have a go at releasing it as you have to now get that window runner out, good luck don't break the glass.

When the runner is out we mig weld washers the the panel and make new bolt in spindels, it's not hard to do with bolts washers and brass rod with a hole in.

When the spindels are made and bolted in place, check the cable wheels turn and add lube, bolt the window motor back on with the three screws to the cable reel, test all is working, by holding the steel panel up to the door with the plug fitted and working the window, if all is ok it's time for the lock and window refit.
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Old 01-09-2013, 10:14 AM
Timbo's Avatar
Timbo Timbo is offline
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 251

Refitting the lock, fit the iner pull cable to the new lock first then the lock and short cable from outer door handle to lock, the handle cable holder and then bolt in the lock, remember to do up the the screw under the door water seal.

Now pull up the window and fit the panel with window clip down at the bottom of the window runner, bolt in place making sure all the wiring is in place in the holes and the door lock rod and cable is in place.

Push the window down into the clip it should clip in and the window should go up and down, we have found it hard to push the window into the V clip, however we have used the motor the drive up the window at times to clip it in, it's not what I like doing as risk of breaking the glass.

Ok when the glass is in place in the V clip, test the window op:, refit the door trim wiring, door pull cable, locking rods and the trim screws and pull handle, test the door opening and locking first with door open and the lock pushed back in the door, if all is working close the door and test .
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